A day like no other. Perfect waves, sunny bluebird
sky, the crisp noise of the waves crashing and breaking out far, the
waves the best things in the world as they crash on the beach. It was a
perfect day. I grabbed my board and my fins and set out into the blue
silky warm ocean ready to face the waves. I ran out with my Boogie
board, the sleekest, the fastest, and the blackest. I was ready to catch
the wave of my life as I was running into the surf.
I was out in the surf waiting and waiting for the perfect wave. Then it
swooped in like a giant eagle, tall and blue. I paddled and paddled,
getting on the wave; then I got on and shot down the face of the wave
like a rocket, swerving and turning up and down the wave while screaming
“YEAH!!!!!!!!” Then I saw the Greenroom wall come crashing down like a
million pounds, and I swerved into the wave as the wall closed and I was
in the Greenroom, an amazing place where nothing else matters and you
just take in the moment.
The Greenroom is the coolest and most beautiful place in the whole
world. It changes you and shows you new things—it is spectacular. Being
inside the Greenroom, the tube of the wave curling and closing in on
surfers, was the best moment of my life.
That moment changed my life forever, and I will always treasure it in my
memory of great and amazing summers to come. The Greenroom is something
that is life changing and is so extravagant and wondrous. It is
something that one will not forget and will remember for all time.