One early summer morning, I went surfing. “We’re
just living in Paradise.” The first words I hear while I slam my alarm
clock shut as the song fades away. Tired, I peek out of my window into
the dark blue sky. A burst of excitement tingles through my fingers. I
jump out of my bed at 6:00 a.m. I run to the bathroom like a hungry
tiger chasing its prey. I grab my toothbrush and put on minty
toothpaste. My navy blue bathing suit is just sitting there, waiting to
go into the cool blue ocean. I put it on along with my wetsuit.
Awkwardly, I stare at my surfboard, bringing back all my memories, like
when I first stood up on my surfboard. A tickle dances its way up my
spine. Remembering my first memory on my surfboard always makes me
“Let’s go and enjoy our first day back in Huntington!” Keeley cheers.
Slowly we bring our tan, blue, bold longboards down from the garage and
put them under our feet. I pick up my surfboard and bring it to my side
while I roll off into the street. Staring at the beautiful sky, I can
feel the cool summer breeze squeezing my face. I can hardly bear any
more excitement; I can see the sun creeping out of its sleep. Huntington
Beach is getting closer and closer to me. Finally, my toes step onto the
sand. We already see that seven surfers have claimed their territories.
Carefully, we lay down our longboards as if they were our babies. The
surf boards are staring at the ocean, counting down the seconds until
their dry skin reaches the wet ocean.
“3, 2, 1” I whisper as we wait for the ocean to calm down so we can go
in. The little waves squeezing my toes just begging me to come in, I
finally step forward, agreeing. I hop onto my surfboard, paddling out to
the big ferocious waves heading my way. I begin to see a wave.
Questioning if I want to take the risk or not, I dive under the ocean,
waiting for the wave to pass. I come up gasping for air when I see two
surfers, tall, tan, and blonde, come and go out to the deep ocean,
catching the wave I missed. I finally see the wave, the perfect wave for
me. I quickly turn around my board, paddling forward. Stomach churning,
eyes dazing, quickly I begin moving my hands back and forth, like a
professional swimmer. I can feel the wave stalking behind my feet. I
keep focused on where I am going. Feet latching, hands shaking, head
spinning, I leap up. I stand still for a moment. Step by step, I move
forward. I get on top of the wave. All my worries and fears fade away.
All I can see is myself and the water. The ocean, a free, crystal, cool
place. My wave starts to slow down, and I dive under water. I can tell
that my wave wasn’t unsavory but mellifluous. The water splashing, I
come up to some surfers clapping about my wave.
“Amazing job!” yells a tall, brave, strong brunette surfer. My hands are
wet, my smile bright, my happiness approaches. Just in that moment, I
realize that the smallest things in life can bring a smile on your face
for the rest of your life. A small moment of your life can be worth
1,000 memories. You just have to remember that things happen because of